My cousin likes to give over and above what is needed and expected, because it shows something about who God is to a person. His extravagant grace. I think that is amazing. I think that even more when I am on the receiving side of itJ. My cousin is here visiting me in Brazil for two weeks, the second person who has come to see my world here (the first was Anna). I have a list of people who will eventually come and visit. It is growing longer and longer. Hopefully.
It is one of my favorite things to show people around Brazil—there is something special about it, like it widens my view as well. I want to widen until my box shatters completely. But that sounds slightly painful. Lillian asked me where else in Brazil I wanted to see, and then asked if I wanted to be her official translator. YES. So we went to the Amazon. The entrance of the longest river in the world has the city of Belem. The end of the Amazon (ish) has the city of Manaus. We visited Belem.
(notice: tree growing out of building. homeless man on the doorstep)
It is a beautiful city, much like Recife, but with more imported cars, conveniences, and is actually tourist-friendly. You get off the plane wondering where they hid the Amazon, and when you will get your first glimpse. The only thing every single person told me when I said I was going to the Amazon was to bring bug spray. And if I had my shots. Yes and yes. But there really wasn’t any bugs in the city. It was like a normal city. And when we did see the Amazon (that properly looked like all the pictures of the Amazon that were in my head), there weren’t many bugs there either. The only thing that bit me was fire ants. Which is typical, because ants and I go way back. The only thing that bit Lillian was a bird.
Four days, three nights, but really three days once you count travel time. Our hotel/pousada/home is a newly renovated old house with a pool in the back where they built three extra rooms. The husband is French and the wife is Brazilian and their five year old son can’t decide what language he likes better. They are friendly, and breakfast is included, as well as all of the advice about where are good places to go. You stay at someone’s house in Brazil and you are instant family. I rather like that.
We are about 8 blocks from the docks and the river itself, so get up early to see it. Since it is the entrance of the Amazon, it is huge, with tributaries going out like fingers in every direction as far as we can see. Muddy brown, at different parts you can see the famous mixing of the fresh and salt water. Ver-o-peso market is just waking up when we get there, but the fish market is full—the boats come in at 4 am every morning. That was on the list of things to do, but Rachel grimaced.
(Acai berries are those things hanging from the palm tree-looking things)
Continuing walking down the edge of the river, we pass the acai market, were we walk on cobblestones with squished acai between each one. There is a fort and a cathedral, and we stop to pray. I sat there in awe. It was the most ornate and beautiful cathedral I have been to yet. I asked Lillian if all the big churches in Europe were much like this (because she’s been there). She said yes, just imagine them bigger and more ornate. See? Now I don’t need to go to Europe.
Looking at the paintings on the walls and ceilings, I realized that all my life I have been seeing art and nature from a different perspective. I go to zoos and museums and see a little bit of everything being brought to me. And I am honored to have that opportunity. Most of the world is not. But it is something entirely different to go to a place and see it where is it permanent. They won’t be moving the art painted into the ceiling. Or the walls. Someone created it just for that place, and that is the only place it will ever be. Same thing with animals. Interesting.
Belem is known for their celebration called Nazare de Cirio. One million people come to that cathedral I was sitting at, and carry a statue of Mary from that church to the Basilica a couple of kilometers away. This celebration was the week before we came. Impressive. We went to that Basilica (and apparently, the cast system is church, then cathedral, then Basilica. So this is a big deal), but I didn’t like it half so much. It was a little too much for me, with the ornate statues and carvings and big screen TVs strapped to the big marble pillars.
While there, we lit candles for loved ones and looked for this famous statue that had just been carried there by a million people. The statue apparently, had done many miracles, including save a man from falling over a cliff. I didn’t ask HOW the statue did it, it just said that is what happened. Ok. Lillian and I looked all over and I finally found it: inside a small glass box in the middle of a huge wreath statue that was on top of an even bigger statue making up a gigantic focal point for the church. The actual statue is the size of a doll. “Is that it?” were Lillian’s words.
Belem is a city with big churches and small statues, but they also have walled off certain blocks of the city and conserved them. You walk in and arrive at the Amazon (as it is supposed to look). Magal das gracas was one of these places, where I met the fire ants, and Lillian met the birds—and got bit. I got amazing pictures that make me look like a much better photographer than I really am. There was also the museu Emilio Goeldi, which isn’t much of a museum, but is much of a zoo. Yeah jaguars and sloths! Sloths are actually much cuter than in books, and moved much faster than had been implied in said books.
We took a sunset cruise on the Amazon, seeing the second best sunset ever (the first best was on the plane ride to Belem), hearing traditional Brazilian music, and watching everyone dance. Brazilians don’t listen to music well while sitting down. The old docks have been turned into an upscale mall that held the most wonderful surprise: Cairu. Cairu is the best ice cream in the world. Ok—top three: mango/apple ice cream in Hong Kong, pumpkin ice cream at the covered bridge festival in Indiana, and Cairu ice cream in Belem. They have over 40 flavors, including cheese ice cream. I had acai mixed with tapioca (Brazilian tapioca, which is different).
Friday we focused on seeing everything in the city, and Saturday we were on the river all day. With the band and dancing, of course. You put a group of Brazilians on a boat and everyone is friends in an hour. After about an hour and a half, we were looking at houses on the river with kids waving. Handmade canoes passed us, pushing with carved out paddles. They don’t have school busses here, they have school boats that take them to school.
We docked at an island and embarked on what the guide books said was an “ecological hike.” Actually, it was a kilometer or two of wading and walking on the beach to get around the island to the restaurant. The water was exceptionally high (as we passed the houses, I saw a flooded soccer field), so the water was up to our waist at points. Lillian, who uses special shoes to walk, had to take them off because they couldn’t get wet. Two men helped her—because she hasn’t walked that far without her shoes in ten years. I walked behind, helping translate and carrying the shoes. When we arrived at the restaurant, everyone cheered for us: they, and I, have been very inspired by Lillian’s determination to get through and be able to see everything. As she put it, “Well, we had to get to lunch, didn’t we?”
There, we had fresh acai: a fruit only grown in the Amazon. They had just picked the berries, boiled/prepared them off the seed, pureed them, and then put the puree goop in a bowl. They had options of things to put in it like sugar (it is actually pretty nasty without any sugar), farinha, and puffed tapioca (sort o like puffed rice). Amazingness. They also had cupuacu—another Amazon only fruit—in all sorts of forms: juice, pie, ice cream, pave, crème…
Sunday we rested and enjoyed the artesian feira, selling all kinds of arts and crafts, including stuffed piranha! While in Recife the piranha are protected, in Belem you can eat them or stuff them a vontade. Yesssss—score perfect Christmas presents. One last Cairu ice cream cone overlooking the Amazon river, and we headed back to the airport, and back home for another week of fun times before Lillian goes home to the US of A.
Dreams are always funny when they come true. I’ve wanted to go to the Amazon for as long as I can remember. But when dreams come true they seem a whole lot more simple and natural than the whole time the idea was only stuck in your head. It is like “of course this is happening—this is how it was supposed to be all along.” There is an empty feeling after you’ve done something you’ve always dreamed of…and I feel the sudden urge to look at a map and find new dreams to dream.
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